There’s a natural affinity between St.Tropez and Miami – the climate, beautiful people, beach setting, and the let’s party lifestyle. So it’s not surprising that a number of restaurateurs from France have opened outposts in South Beach ( Baoli, Villa Azur) and now Bagatelle. After a recent visit, I’ve added it to my list of best places to celebrate a special occasion (or make an ordinary occasion special).
We went at 7:30 on a Friday night. The décor made a perfect statement about what Bagatelle is about: all white with traditional chandeliers surrounded by molding that was unmistakeably European. On the walls, cartoon pop art by the artist SEEN that was all about fun. The bar, a focal point of the room, had a few casually chic patrons engaged in an animated conversation. The owners bill Bagatelle as “making you feel as if you’ve escaped to Europe if only for a day”. The music was loungey and just the right level; the leather banquettes comfy. We relaxed and settled in.
As the evening continued, very attractive people, a monied crowd, of all ages began arriving and the music and buzz stepped up. By the time we left at 10:30 the bar was brimming, the restaurant was full, and a manned red velvet rope only let in people with reservations.
But let’s get on to the food which, not surprising, was classic French cuisine but on the lighter side. Executive Chef is the French born Matthieu Godard who hails from New York and the Daniel Boulud empire, including the gem, Daniel. The menu is not too large (I have a problem with menus that go on forever) but well chosen. I went with the recommended specialties, starting with a delicious yellowfin tuna tartar with avocado salad. It was a generous portion and larger chunks than usual, so you really taste the tuna. That was followed by the gnocchi with black truffle sauce, the gnocchi made with pate de choix made with milk and flour rather than the heavier potato variety.
Mr.W opted for the Tatin de Tomate, a rich tasting tarte tatin made with goat cheese, olives, tomato, and caramelized onions in a flaky pastry. It transported me to the Mediterranean, a dish that one should see more often on Miami menus as it’s perfect for this climate (and with all our seasonal tomatoes).
My main course was Gambas au Pastis, jumbo prawns, flambéd with Ricard anise and a slightly piquant green vegetable risotto. Another novel presentation and pairing that got high marks. It was a tough choice, whether to go with the whole truffled roasted chicken for two or the grilled rack of lamb, but the French always do lamb so well, that we chose the latter which was perfectly cooked, seasoned and top quality. For sides we recommend the spicy charred broccolini and the pureed potatoes with truffles.
A selection of dishes are designed for small groups – grand plates of charcuterie with cured meats, terrines and garnishes; and above all, the seafood platters for two ($85) or four ($185) which include tuna tartar, salmon, stone crab, Alaska king crabs, mussels, clams and shrimp, which is on my “must try” list for next time. That and a glass or two of champagne and voila. So festive.
For dessert, you’ll find the traditional French favorites including pineapple financier, profiteroles, madeleines and an unusual cheesecake napoleon – crispy phyllo, goat cheese, poached peaches, sweet pesto and Riesling sorbet. There’s also a cheese board, mais oui, and wine pairings by the glass.
Appetizers average $20; entrees $39 and desserts $12.
There’s a solid wine list and an imposing list of champagnes including Jeroboams. Wines by the glass are in the usual mid-teens; a glass of Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial is $22 and Dom Perignon Brut 2003, $65. For those who want to really impress and have the budget to do it in a big way there’s a Jeroboam of Dom Perignon Luminous Label Rose 200 for $13,500.
Bagatelle is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday and has also launched a champagne weekend brunch (12 to 6 p.m.) where guests are invited to dance on the tables. A couple sitting next to us was from New York and they said there’s a month long waiting list to get into the brunch at Bagatelle in New York (there are other Bagatelles in Los Angeles, St. Barths, St.Tropez, Sao Paulo, and more to come). I predict Bagatelle will be one of the hot new restaurants in Miami 2015.
Bagatelle, 2000 Collins Avenue (T.305-704-3900).
One Response
either I am overexposed, jaded, or absolutely on the mark when I usually find the reality never lives up to the hype….my response to villa d’azur is that the garden is beautiful, and that is all, was treated very, very badly (a table for 10) at baoli when we wanted to sit outdoors,and the crowd at la piaggia barely qualifies as eurotrash (sobetrash)… some of Miami curated suggestions are valid, so I will consider giving this one a try….btw, what happened to the glorious shrimp toasts at the Raleigh? dinner there recently found it indistinguishable from spicy cardboard… (altho I rarely eat cardboard) that place is so romantic that you could fall in love w a gorilla!