LEKU has always been a class act – its top notch Basque cuisine with an emphasis on meats, casually elegant in the garden setting of the Rubell Museum, professional service, and attractive crowd that’s not showy. Under these circumstances, few restaurants would transform themselves with a fresh approach, new chef and new menu, but not so here. The three high profile team members leading the “new” LEKU has just debuted LEKU Fish and Garden, and once again they have a winner.
Prominent restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow in collaboration with leading chef Carlos Garcia and business partner and serious foodie Terry Zarikian have created a new seafood destination that combines Basque culinary tradition, Miami’s vibrant flavors and highly creative taste sensations and food presentation. Vegetables also figure in prominently, adapting to a growing taste for plant based foods. At the same time, the restaurant still features some of the meat dishes for which they have been known.
The menu at Leku Fish and Garden is divided into latas, conservas y embutidos which are artisanal tinned seafoods with flavors from the Basque and Catalonian regions; small plates; fish our way; fish your way as in customizable options; whole fish Carlitos Way; garden, not-fish; additions; and desserts.
We went to a tasting of over a dozen dishes, too many to describe here, so I’ll focus on our favorites, a tough choice. Certainly one of the highlights that demonstrates the creativity with the seafood concept is the chorizo (sausage) made from tuna and salmon. It was delicious and truly tasted like sausage, but with a less dense texture. It was served with a delicious crusty and dense bread flown in from Spain. The chorizo was just one of the dishes in the novel seafood charcuterie plate that also includes shrimp Txistorra (sausage) and tuna belly mojama that’s salt cured ($28). It’s hard to find canned tuna as good as the one served here, ventresca del norte that’s white tuna belly in extra virgin olive oil served with pickled vegetables ($21).
The snapper crudo, marinated with piparrak (Basque peppers) with green olives and cucumber was oh so fresh as was all of the seafood, and the seasoning had just the right touch ($21). Next time I’d like to try a signature dish, the scallop tartar made of Hokkaido scallops, tobiko caviar, green apples, crispy onions and fresh uni.
While we’re talking fish, we loved the roasted lubina ( branzino). Sure, lots of restaurants have branzino, but this was exceptionally well done in its simplicity – crispy skin and flaky and moist inside, served with Florida citrus butter ($36). The fish options are varied and exceptional, like the whole fish Carlitos way. You choose your freshly caught whole fish and Chef Carlos will create an entrée bouquet with four different preparations (market price). There’s another option to choose from among four kinds of fish, four preparations and four different sauces (market price).
Another standout are the vegetables, unusual and much welcome presentations since all too often at restaurants there are the same old, same old. A favorite of ours this summer in Spain they serve here, the roasted artichoke ($16) with an option of 5Jotas jam ($5). The artichoke was crispy outside and tender inside, and very tasty. We also really liked the smoked mushroom tartar presented in the shape of a slice of mushroom with crispy phyllo on top ($18) and the roasted carrots with mimolette cheese.
For meat lovers they offer Wagyu picanha, crispy confit suckling pig, roast chicken and oxtail stew ($25-$120).
Desserts? Their signature Basque cheesecake of course.
They offer a large selection of cocktails ($15-$19). Wine by the glass (a 6 ounce pour) starts at $12 and bottles at $60.
There’s a parking lot in the back that’s free and street parking. Happily, the noise level is moderate making for easy conversation. LEKU Fish and Garden is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through Wednesday. 1100 NW 23rd St, Miami, FL 33127
Make a day of your lunch or dinner there, teaming it up with a visit to Allapattah. Check out my post on A Day in Allapattah.
2 Responses
Good to know Karen. I remember when we went there together!
We’ll have to go back again when you’re next in town. Let me know!