Though not typically thought of as a foodie destination, after a week in Antigua, Guatemala, I put it on my list for culinary travel (and other reasons besides). Have a look at the fruits and vegetables you see in the supermarket in Miami, and many of the better ones come from Guatemala. Since the country was part of the Capitancy -General of Guatemala which included the Mayan empire reaching to Mexico, it was no surprise that there are a number of similar dishes. But the food here is much more — Guatemala has its own delicious traditional dishes, others that mix Spanish and other Mayan influences, and then in Antigua there’s a further exciting offering of dishes from restaurateurs who have studied around the world or moved here and opened restaurants and take advantage of the wonderful local produce. Plus, there’s the booming coffee and chocolate scene, both locally grown. Better than my just talking about the food, best for you to see some of the many exciting dishes my Mexican foodie friends, Mr. W and I tried at different restaurants in Antigua, Guatemala. Here’s my photo gallery along with other reasons for a visit.
But first, a word about the other attractions besides food. Antigua Guatemala is a well preserved 16th century Spanish colonial city, a UNESCO world heritage site with 500 years of history,. It’s full of charming houses with lovely interior courtyards brimming with plants and flowers that thrive in the springlike climate year round, handsome baroque churches, and cobblestone streets.
It’s estimated that 45% of the population in Guatemala is Mayan, so you’re in the midst of all the elements of Mayan culture – — the eye popping color of the textiles and local dress, the traditions, and the friendly people.
The city is surrounded by beautiful verdant hills and mountains where the likes of avocados, corn, tomatoes and fruits are more than plentiful, along with three towering volcanoes (inactive). A side trip for an overnight is to the ruins of Tikal, It is one of the largest archeological sites and urban centers of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization. And, another reason for a visit, it’s quick getaway, under a three hour flight from Miami.
A good example of the fusion of cuisines is 27 Adentro whose owners are Thomas, a Guatemalan who worked in Cuba, and his Cuban wife Natalia. Here you’ll find a few Cuban dishes like mofongo and tostones with shredded seasoned beef, but then there are their own
“fusion”creations like one of my best dishes of the year, the Lasagna with Corn Tortilla, five cheeses, spinach and chicken.
Or the Slow-cooked pork belly with chamomile and hibiscus infusion accompanied by quinoa, roasted carrots and zucchini. It was a winning entry in the country’s annual culinary festival of flowers where chefs use flowers in their recipes and for presentations.
Overlooking famed Lake Atitlan, one of the largest in Latin America, is Casa Palopo, a stylish and rustic Relais et Chateau. Here, too, the Guatemalan chef was inspired by his experiences at a two star Michelin restaurant in San Sebastian, along with Mexico and of course his native country.
One of my favorites was a simple dish, but done to perfection – chicken breast served over a pepian risotto, with grilled chayote, grated panela cheese and chayote leaves.
Vegetable dishes were works of art, with unusual flavors I’ve never had, even for the ubiquitous roast cauliflower.
For New Year’s we went to Santo Spirito, the organic restaurant of Italian chef Mattia Bellucci. Here the emphasis was on a local take on Italian food, like a Caesar salad with smoked duck.
And a wonderful melted stracciatella cheese with mushrooms.
Speaking of the variety of restaurants in Antigua, Guatemala, we also enjoyed some serious comfort food at 7 Caldos (seven soups). The chicken soup, a rich broth with corn, squash, potatoes, prickly pear and avocado with a salad, white rice and tortillas on the side, was so good I’m going to look for a Guatemalan restaurant in Miami where I might buy it. Anyone know of one?
And then there was the national food of Guatemala, pepian, a savory stew that can be made of chicken, vegetables or beef. I’ve included a five minute video of how to make it as it’s something you may want to try.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=EtjRfOsmOPg
And how could I forget the homemade ice cream in all kinds of fruit flavors and best yet – where they’re sold. In colorful childlike ice cream trucks painted by the owner. Each has its own spot around the central park.
So as you’re thinking of travel in 2024, perhaps include Antigua in your travel plans? Another place you may want to keep in mind, though on the other side of the border, is Chiapas in Mexico. For my post on travel there, click here.
