
There hadn’t been many new restaurants that caught my eye this summer, but that changed lately, and now I’m on a roll, especially with a favorite category, chef owner/operated restaurants. First Tam Tam and now Ostrow French brasserie in Buena Vista. On a recent visit, my friend and I agreed everything was delicious and just different enough to be exciting (all made in house), the ambiance stylish, and the service excellent. And then there’s a surprise.

Ostrow Brasserie is owned by the fashionable and charismatic French born Chef Olivia Ostrow. Born in France, Olivia’s food background ranges from weekends spent growing up in Perigord where she learned to stuff geese and make foie gras to worldwide travels honing her craft and, most recently as restaurateur and then a stint with Stephen Starr. In this new venture, she is collaborating with Michelin starred Chef Michael Collantes. Collantes’ pedigree includes work with many of the big names in the industry, from Joel Robuchon and Eric Ripert to Masa Takayama. Also part of the star team is Kyle Banks who managed one of my faves, COTE Miami.

The restaurant ambiance could have been plucked from France with a difference: instead of the traditional café chairs, there are handsome, plush, upholstered white chairs that would look at home in any elegant drawing room. A whimsical art wall highlights over 40 pieces from Chef Olivia’s personal collection, and then there’s the open exhibition kitchen.

Chef Olivia describes the cuisine as “fine comfort food” and indeed it is. Find some classic favorites which don’t often appear in menus here, like trout amandine and beef bourguignon. And the surprise? The food is Kosher, so no shellfish or dairy, but you’ll never feel deprived. For instance, served with the divine house made French baguettes is a margarine that tastes like fine French butter.

The menu is divided into appetizers, main courses, specialties, side dishes, desserts. And then there are daily specials that are part of O’s Raw Bar, Miami’s first Kosher raw bar, presided over by Collantes. It’s about innovatively prepared fresh fish in creative presentations. Portions are good size, so they work for sharing.

We started with a dish from the raw bar, tuna spaghetti, a special that day. Spirals of fresh tuna laced with fried capers and onion were oh so tasty ($30). We accompanied it with the endive salad, here made with caramelized apples, creamy blue cheese, walnuts in a tarragon vinaigrette, both sweet and savory ($24).

Next up was trout amandine, a good size filet sauteed and presented on a bed of imported French yellow string beans. How I’ve missed that dish! ($34). Another specialty is the beef bourguignon, made of short rib simmered for six hours In a sauce of cabernet sauvignon and herbs de provence. It was tender and just rich enough, and very flavorful ($48).

Next time I’d like to try the truffle and artichoke risotto in a cognac sauce ($55) and the lamb paupiette, chicken scallopini stuffed with eggplant, ground lamb and bresaola with mashed truffle ($52). Of course there’s the mandatory steak frites, 14 ounces, that c omes with side salad and hand cut fries ($86). There’s a good selection of sides ($10-$14).

For dessert do not miss the oh so creamy mousse made exclusively with Swiss chocolate and eggs (decadent) ($12) and the lemon tart with soft meringue and butter crust ($10)

There’s a selection of wine and beer and they’re waiting on their liquor license. A glass of wine (6 ounce pour) starts at $12 and a bottle at $49.
Ostrow Brasserie, 4850 NW 2nd Avenue, Miami. Indoor seating for 100; tropical patio outdoors for 45. Free parking. Open for dinner only.