Some restaurants just look at Miami Spice with short term vision — a vehicle to boost “covers” as they say in the restaurant biz (number of diners) in a slow season.And it’s obvious — steakhouses that don’t put steak on the menu and limited and boring menus. And then there are the restaurants that see Miami Spice as a chance to introduce new diners to the restaurant by impressing them, offering a dining experience and even showcase new selections for the winter season. Such is the restaurant at The Setai .It was tough to choose among the offerings — we didn’t even feel compelled to look at the regular menu except to see that there was Peking duck, a perennial favorite. We rose to the occasion and chose — our starters were steamed scallop dumplings with Port wine and truffle emulsion and warm Thai beef salad (the other choice was the branzino carpaccio). We could have chosen steamed yellowtail snapper but opted for Cantonese style thick rice noodles with bean sprouts and Nasi Goreng (Malaysian fried rice) . And, we added half of a Peking duck, well worth the extra money. Our favorite for dessert was the lemon Meyer tart, the sweet pastry contrasting perfectly with the tart of the lemon and the strawberry sorbet. The sommelier recommended a bottle of Les Orbiers de la Peira 2009 from Languedoc which couldn’t have been a better choice — beautifully textured with body, yet crisp. When you go, be sure to have drinks first in the bar or lobby bar. I always say that everything is about the details — and in the case of drinks, a generous pouring of the Martini served in a shaker, large plump olives, and delicious, creative bar snacks (essential). So far my fave bar snacks are at Prime 112 — the bacon strips, and now The Setai — home made potato chips, olives with chili pepper and garlic and what made the snacks special,the unusual selection of cucumbers marinated with sesame oil, fresno peppers, garlic, sugar and salt — love to have the recipe (catch the “still life” photo of the snacks and yours truly at work). Ask for a table next to the open kitchen where you have multiple benefits of the best people watching (worth watching) and where you might have a chance to meet the charming and talented Mathias Gervais, the Executive Chef, whose impressive pedigree includes a stint with French culinary star Joel Robuchon. P.S. For more “grades” on Miami Spice restaurants check back with us in the coming weeks and also go to Lee Klein of Miami New Times’ reviews at http://tiny.cc/wj5xiw.
