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KooLuLu Miami, Another “Find”

 

Schnitzel challah crispy chicken schnitzel, matbucha, crispy eggplant, tahini, slaw, arugula, onion and fried chili

 

KooLuLu Miami is another “find”  in my series of chef owner operated restaurants that have very good food that’s also both authentic and reasonably priced. The fact that chef Asaf’s parents were from Yemen and Morocco, he was born and raised in Israel, and worked as a sous chef at a Michelin starred restaurant in Amsterdam and Madrid give you an idea of the culinary excitement in the menu. The name KooLuLu is a sound made to express joy, and Chef Asaf says it represents the restaurant’s commitment to providing a welcoming and celebratory dining experience for all who enter.

koolulu miami, miamicurated
Kubaneh, homemade Yemenite brioche served with grated tomato, olive oil, za’atar, scordalia and baba ganoush and a Jerusalem bagel

One visit to KooLuLu Miami and you can see it’s a popular restaurant in the neighborhood with a regular following. And speaking of the neighborhood, several readers have asked that I write more about Bal Harbour and Aventura area restaurants, so they’ll be pleased to learn that KooLuLu is in Surfside, a block from Bal Harbour Shops.

koolulu miami, miamicurated
mushroom humuus

The décor is simple and casual, and the chef seems to be everywhere at once, a sign that he’s constantly checking the quality. There’s an indoor area seating 40 with an open kitchen and several tables out front. 

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matbucha, a piquant rich tasting tomato dip in the foreground and Israeli pickles on the left

The menu is divided into small plates, hummus, salads, plates, sides, kids menu and sweets. We started with a selection of small dishes that were all very fresh and perfectly seasoned. Besides his deft touch, the chef attributes the flavors that pop to his use of fresh spices that he gets from a special purveyor. 

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Fatoush salad with fried pita

When you sit down, first off order the Kubaneh, homemade Yemenite brioche served with grated tomato, olive oil, za’atar, scordalia and baba ganoush. It tasted like it was baked by a fine French bakery, not to be missed ($15). We passed on the pita, and chose to vary our dipping with Jerusalem bagel (pictured here).

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Small roasted potatoes

 

Our favorite starters were the matbucha, a piquant rich tasting tomato dip; barba, made of roasted beets, arugula, red onion, and dried cranberries, all in a date honey vinaigrette; an exceptional eggplant carpaccio made with raw tahini, date honey, pistachio, olive oil powder and rose patel;  fresh shishito peppers served with grated tomato; and a crunchy yet tender falafel served with tahini and amba that my falafel loving son proclaimed the best he has had in Miami ($7-$13). Note that all mezze portions are single size, so definitely plan on getting several, plus they’re all different taste sensations. 

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Moroccan cigars stuffed with seasoned ground beef and lamb

Next up was a standout of the dinner, Moroccan cigars. A crisp phyllo pastry in the shape of a cigar is filled with finely seasoned chopped beef and lamb and served with tahini and lemon cream($15).  Mr. W, a hummus fan, loved the less seen hummus mushrooms that was exceptionally creamy, and topped with sauteed mushrooms ($19).

Yemenite soup

After all of this, unable to eat much more, we passed on the large plates. Next time at KouLuLu Miami we hope to try the signature Yemenite soup made with slow cooked beef and herb soup with Yemenite spices ($19) and the branzino filet with freekeh, eggplant cream, parsley coli and raw tahini ($45).  Plates range in price from $19 to the sixties for a rib eye and lamb chops (3). 

An unusual selection of sweets includes malabi, coconut cream , rose water and pistachio and chocolate halva mousse ($11-$15).

The beverage menu includes pomegranate lemonade, non alcoholic beer, a few juices and sodas. They do not as yet have a liquor license but do serve wine.  A glass starts at $9 and bottles at $41.You can bring your own wine and beer for a  $15 corkage charge.

 KooLuLu Miami,9561 Harding Avenue, Surfside. www.koolulumiami.com. Street parking. It’s open everyday from 10 a.m. except Saturday and closes at 2 p.m. Friday for the Sabbath. It’s kosher.

Karen Escalera

Karen Escalera

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