It’s good news for Miami’s culinary scene that French restaurants are making a comeback here, especially bistros and brasseries, with three new entries in the past year. Bouchon Bistro Miami, the latest, has the most impressive pedigree, including a one-star Michelin rating and a Chef/Owner Thomas Keller who has gotten three Michelin stars at multiple restaurants he has been involved with over the years including Per Se and the French Laundry. Keller’s point of difference is that Bouchon is the most authentic Bistro, a place that truly could have been lifted from Paris, from the menu items and décor to the food presentation. And happily, unlike a lot of very good restaurants these days, it’s open for lunch as well as brunch and dinner.

As he said in an interview in the Michelin Guide magazine, “We’re not trying to change anything,” explains Keller. “We’re trying to represent the culture, food, design, ambiance, and energy. If we embrace that idea and execute it at a very high level, then we’re going to have a restaurant that people will enjoy.”

Bouchon Bistro Miami is also notable for its location, within the storied La Palma building, which is designated on the National Register of Historic Places. The décor is traditional French bistro done well: zinc bar, mosaic floor, globe lights, strategically placed plants, and murals by French artist Paulin Paris. There’s also outdoor seating in a courtyard.

The menu is divided into fruits de mer (raw bar), hors d’oeuvre, salads, entrees, cheese and charcuterie,  debut (starters), sides, sturgeon caviar and desserts. There’s also a selection of daily specials featured on a blackboard, and an emphasis on seasonal ingredients. Everyone gets their house made baguettes with French creamy butter and pistachios on the side.

We selected items that I haven’t seen on other French menus in Miami. Starters were a delicious salade Lyonnaise with escarole, frisee, bacon lardons, poached egg, Palladin croutons and bacon vinaigrette ($21). My friend opted for a Salade d’haricots verts et tomates – French string beans with heirloom tomatoes, Nicoise olives, fennel, white anchovies and basil vinaigrette ($19). Both were delicious, with top ingredients, especially the tomatoes. I’m a serious tomato lover, and these were some of the best I’ve had in recent memory.

For a main dish at Bouchon Bistro Miami  I chose the gigot d’agneau, the roasted leg of lamb served with ratatouille, crispy panisse and extra virgin olive oil. The portion was a good size, the lamb perfectly cooked, tender and flavorful ($54).  My friend selected one of Bouchon’s daily specials,  the 7oz steak au poivre, in a rich sauce of veal jus, brandy, black peppercorns and cream. Again, it was a good size and very tender. We accompanied it with an exceptional creamy potato puree where you could really taste the potatoes ($12). On an earlier visit for lunch I had the truite almondine, sauteed Idaho rainbow trout with green beans, toasted almonds and beurre noisette ($38) that was very fresh and well prepared.

Of course, they have many of the French classics – foie gras, pate, snails, white sausage (boudin blanc) and the croque madame. For those with an adventurous palate, there are oreilles de cochon, crispy pig ears with sauce gribiche ($15).

Dessert was a tarte au citron, lemon tart, that was excellent (though I did miss the lemon meringue which is my favorite part).

Bouchon Bistro Miami has a vin de carafe program that highlights prominent vintners from California and France, offering value priced selections. A glass of wine (5 ounce pour) starts at $14 and bottles at $60. Their cocktail program uses French spirits for classic cocktails, a novel twist. Cocktails are priced starting at $12. For dinner for two with a glass of wine each, one starter and one entrée each, and one dessert, expect to pay $200 plus tax and tip.

There’s street parking, an adjacent garage and valet is $12.

Bouchon Bistro Miami, 2101 Galiano Street, Coral Gables, FL

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