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De Rodriguez: Exciting Latin Cuisine

fish tacos
Smoked marlin tacos

When legendary tough New York Times critic Ruth Reichl described Douglas Rodriguez’s Patria as having the “most exciting new food” in New York , I put it on my
“to visit” list. Unfortunately, at the time I was moving down to Miami and
never made it. My good fortune was to have recently received an email newsletter
announcing that his  De Rodriguez Cuba restaurant in Miami just won a prestigious
4 Diamonds from AAA, one of 10 restaurants in Miami to be so honored .

So off I went to finally sample his cuisine at his breezy eatery at The Bentley Hotel at 101B Ocean Drive, Tel.305-798-7439. It was a beautiful May night and we chose to sit outdoors by the pool enjoying some pretty hot “salsa” music in the background.  Reichl got it right when she called the food “exciting” as in creative, complex flavors, original, and delicious. The menu is Cuban inspired while also embracing foods and flavors from all over Latin America.

We started with a signature dish pictured here, mini tacos filled with marlin
that is marinated in rum and molasses and then smoked, paired with garlic aioli
in a malanga root shell. The portion and size were just right. Then it was on to
two different ceviches, salmon and green apple, and one of my favorite dishes
of the evening, a tuna and watermelon ceviche, cool to the palate, sweet and spicy.
Don’t miss the steamed yucca empanada filled with spinach, manchego cheese and
served on a bed of slivered baby artichokes sautéed with red pepper.  It
was a blend of exciting contrasting textures, warm and creamy. High marks for
presentation go to the oxtail in a can – literally, oxtail which has been
braised and slow cooked for 48 hours is then sealed in a can and opened at
tableside. It is accompanied by black beans and rice. A big tuna fan, I enjoyed
the seared ahi grade tuna on a sugar cane stick served over smoked mashed
potatoes, spinach and pine nuts. A winner.  Desserts were equally
creative. Amaretto flan laced with black cherry and goat cheese was served in a
mason jar along with house made sugar cookies. Another choice was a chocolate
mousse filled with hazelnuts and salted caramel paired with dulce de leche ice
cream. If you want the full experience, go for the tasting menu, 14 dishes for
$150 a couple. For the wine pairing add on another $25 per person.

When you’re looking for something different and very Miami, De Rodriguez Cuba
would be an excellent choice.

Karen Escalera

Karen Escalera

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