It was a coincidence perhaps that I went to the exhibit of Italian designer fashion from 1945 – 1968 at the NSU Art Museum, a voyage in nostalgia, and then a week later dined at Villa Castelli in Surfside, a restaurant that could be plucked out of Southern Italy from the same period. Nor was it a surprise when we found out the General Manager hails from Puglia, whose images dot the walls, and his Executive Chef Gioacchinmo Sofia from Sicily. He brought with him recipes passed down from generations.
We found ourselves in a traditional ambiance of deep red and beige carpet and damask upholstered chairs with red Murano-like chandeliers overhead and large well spaced tables with starched white linen tablecloths and roses. Not surprisingly, the menu is well laced with Italian classics – from prosciutto handcut from an antique slicer that’s a centerpiece of the room (and handcut I saw makes a big difference) and burrata with addictive warmed bread to housemade fresh pastas, zuppa di pesce, various veal dishes, and tiramisu .
But it’s not just about Italian food. Maitre d’ Javier had us salivating from his passion, as he described the daily specials – duck in a green apple puree, filet mignon with foie gras in a Barolo reduction, black truffle risotto with mushrooms, and more.
We started with the prosciutto and baby clams in a white wine sauce which were fresh as fresh can be. Next up was spaghetti carbonara made with guanciale, Italian cured pork cheek rather than the more common pancetta which gave it a more delicate flavor. The pasta was perfectly al dente and less rich than one usually finds.
For mains, Mr. W couldn’t resist the ossobucco with saffron risotto which he found meltingly tender and tasty, and proceeded to save some for lunch the next day to prolong the enjoyment. Since this had been a heavy duty eating week and also because dover sole is not usual to find on menus here, I opted for the sole which was deboned tableside and served with broccoli rabe. A co-executive chef from Chile oversees the seafood which is a likely reason why the sole also was quite fresh and well prepared.
Though I’m not a big fan of Italian desserts, the almond parfait made with almonds, vanilla creme and chocolate sauce got high marks from yours truly and for those wanting something lighter, the wildberry panacotta is a good choice.
Villa Castelli is open less than a month so it was quiet on the weekend night we went there which we thoroughly enjoyed for a change – very relaxing. It primarily gets a neighborhood crowd, though since this is a swanky neighborhood, prices are what you’d expect in Bal Harbour.
Starters are in the teens; entrees are in the 20’s and 30’s with a high of $62 for a 24 ounce bone in rib eye; and desserts are $12. Portions are good sized so could be shared. A glass of wine starts at $12 and bottles at $55. Corkage fee is $25 and free if they don’t carry the wine.
The service is attentive and friendly thanks to General Manager Ciro Costanzo. This is one new restaurant addition to the Miami scene that is not SO Miami as the ad slogan goes, and it’s a welcome change.
