If you haven’t been to the Eden Roc in awhile, time to go. The revamped lobby décor does Morris Lapidus proud with the iconic design updated, but true to the original in style, lighting and mood. A theatrical underlit bar in the round, punchy red lamp shades, dramatic crystal chandelier, and of- the- minute floral arrangements makes for a special setting for an enticing pre- dinner cocktail. But there’s another reason to go – 15 Steps restaurant , 4525 Collins Ave, Miami Beach (T.305-531-0000)
The restaurant is named for 15 steps involved in getting quality products from farm to table, a mantra of the creative and passionate Chef Jeremy Ford who hails from Patina in Los Angeles and Dean Max in Fort Lauderdale. Ford makes the usual unusual with an adept hand at spices, the introduction of unexpected ingredients, and the presentation. I always ask the chef what he’s most proud of and order that. One of those dishes is the charcuterie plate, a unique take on this now ominpresent menu offering, with rabbit and foie gras terrine with walnuts, duck rillette, duck breast, guanciale (a kind of bacon), Irish porter cheddar and grilled country bread and condiments. Everything is made in house. Next up was Ahi tuna poke, their take on tuna tartare. Again he ups the ante, with perfectly spiced raw tuna from a secret supplier in the Keys, wakame salad, melon and macadamia nuts, a Hawaiian recipe. Another favorite was the corn soup, an exquisite creation of Homestead’s own corn (from family farm Teena’s Pride), chive crème fraiche, cucumber, shrimp salsa and smoked paprika croutons. It was sweet and creamy with a hint of kick.
Steak gets a new twist as it comes crusted with bone marrow and surrounded by split bones exposing more of the super rich marrow, considered a delicacy by serious foodies. Accompanying the steak were brussel sprouts and 4 kinds of braised mushrooms. Whatever you do, save room for dessert, and order the sampler: donut with dulce de leche filling and ice cream soda, and Florida grapefruit soup made with sage sorbet, coconut gelee, fruit juices and melon (told you he is creative!). The piece de resistance though is the bacon ice cream popsicle covered in dark chocolate (a mini pop). I threw caution to the wind and ate two. Super WTC (worth the calories).
The setting at 15 Steps is casually elegant and the service, under the direction of the watchful eye of General Manager Matt Dinkel won’t disappoint. There’s indoor and outdoor dining on the terrace (indoors there are the fun Alice in Wonderland chairs), and valet parking will be validated for a reasonable (for the Beach) $10. Appetizers range in price from $12-$18, entrees from $30-$50 and dessert is $10.
