
Our travel in Sicily last summer was inspired by our loving the TV series White Lotus, not unlike millions of other viewers. This return visit to cities we hadn’t visited last year –Ortigia, the historical center of Siracusa, Modica, Noto and Linguaglossa near Mt.Etna, was a result of a new love affair with this southernmost Italian island of beautiful Baroque architecture, especially wonderful food highlighted by the freshest fish, shellfish and local produce and wine; a unique sensibility of design, pattern and riotous color that inspire Dolce & Gabbana; and a history that embraces Greek, Roman, Norman, and Arab civilizations. Here is a read and look at some of what we saw and loved in our travel to Sicily. I think you’ll enjoy the eye candy even if a visit there isn’t in your travel plans. And at the end, help if you need an itinerary. Enjoy!

First stop in our travel to Sicily, Siracusa and the island of Ortigia, connected by bridges. Allied with Sparta and Corinth in ancient times, Siracusa was the most important city in the entirety of Magna Graecia and its Greek archaeological park, museum, castle and others bear witness to that. A major attraction now through October 25, 2025, its Greek theater with its quarries is host to an exhibit of one of my favorite sculptors Igor Mitoraj. A contemporary take on Greek sculpture meets ancient ruins in a dramatic juxtaposition

.
Ortigia is full of wonderful shops selling the famed ceramic heads and jewelry,

wildly colorful and patterned resort wear and items for home decoration and entertaining where I bought my beach dress and canvas fish tote;

Restaurants specializing in oh so tasty Sicilian dishes and freshly caught seafood like a divine red tuna or mussels, or less usual pasta preparations like orrechiette with rape, guanciale, clams and smoked provolone cheese and this cleverly garnished fried calamari sandwich;
Lovely seaside promenades with unexpected visual delights like this amphibious Fiat;

And a major puppet show, a 100 year old tradition here.

Nearby is Noto. Here again it’s a feast for the eyes with its incredible baroque churches and palazzos. There’s also a wonderful shop that specializes in ceramic heads.I finally capitulated and got one, getting it shipped home. Near Noto one can go to some unspoiled beaches, but we chose not to, since our next destination after Sicily was Crete where it’s mostly about a daily beach visit.

Next up was Modica with its “high city” and “low city”, built entirely on the sides of mountains, traversed by a road that used to be a river splitting the town in two. It’s quite dramatic, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and no need to worry about getting your exercise here. I figure we walked several hundred steps a day, as most of the hotels and B & B’s and Air BNB’s are built into the rocks. Never fear, you can be powered by chocolate, a local specialty in all kinds of flavors. It’s in the heart of the area of small Baroque towns included Scicli where much of the Detective Montalbano series was filmed (see it!).

We finished up our visit there at Linguaglossa at the foot of Mt. Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano. It erupted when we were there, spewing some fire, but locals brushed this off as a usual occurence. The town is popular for visits to a wide choice of excellent wineries and numerous parks with hikes and trails for all levels and dramatic vistas. We splurged and stayed at Palazzo Previtera, the family home of a mother who is an architect and her talented and charming son Alfio, who converted it into a a truly unique place to stay with its antique filled rooms, frescoed ceilings, gardens and an orchard with secluded nooks. There’s even a swimming pool for just a few cottages and seven rooms. Breakfast often features fresh fruit from their farm, as well as homemade jams and yoghurt. At the end of a few days we headed back to Catania to depart for Greece.

We spent eight days in our trip to Sicily, making for a leisurely visit. Last year we did the other towns of Catania, Agrigento, Piazza Armerina, Trapani, and Palermo for a week. We skipped Taormina both years as, post White Lotus, we were told (and my son who went there on a cruise confirmed it), it has gotten very touristy and crowded (Someone who went there recently said the Four Seasons is sold out until 2028).
That being said, even in August when we go, in all the other towns we went to except for Ortigia you won’t find loads of tourists and even in Ortigia it was fine. They’re really places to get in touch with the locals and are authentic.. At the end of a few days we headed back to Catania to depart for Crete (a fave combo for us, Sicily and Crete). I have to say I was missing Sicily as were driving back. It’s the kind of place that strikes a chord.
If you’re looking for help with plans for travel in Sicily, Italian Connection Tours based in Sicily, is excellent. She did our travel itineraries and accommodations recommendations (always giving us a choice). She’ll also handle the entire execution if you wish.



6 Responses
I agree Karen , Love Sicily the food the wine the people it’s really unique and quite different then the rest of Italy that still has some hidden gems
I’ve never been but I love your descriptions and have added it to the top of my list!
such a treat to read and see your details about Sicily….a great break from the “debate” brouhaha…..love all your details about the smaller towns and of c ourse the shopping!
Dear Karen:
I am living vicariously through you!
Thank you for always sharing your travels so descriptively.
Hi Karen, we’re going to Sicily end of October, our itinerary is done but welcome suggestions on good restaurants. Thank you
Great!Let me say this first. We prefer trattorias, tavernas, bistros, etc when we travel rather than fine dining. So you won’t find recommendations for Michelin star restaurants. That being said, I do research and we ate in some really delicious srestaurants and eateries. In Ortigia don’t miss Al Levante, Pane e Mare for salads and sandwiches and Al Pollo for rotisserie chicken in the marketplace. In Modica we liked Capretto and in Linguaglossa Boccaperto. These were all super. Enjoy!