I’m beginning to think that some of the best variety and quality for value restaurants are happening in the North Miami Beach/Aventura area. Not talking fancy or “buzzy”, but the kind of places that are ideal for a midweek meal or something casual and not pricey on the weekends. A very good example is a gastropub with an unlikely name of Lettuce & Tomato Miami. From the name, one would think it’d be a vegetarian or health food restaurant. Not, except that there are solid vegetarian options. More about the name later. Let’s get down to the food. This place is truly a neighborhood gem and is definitely worth the trip if you’re near the Aventura Mall, FIU, or other points north.
The founder Roy Starobinsky, used to work at Epicure and did a stint studying in France, so he knows his quality ingredients. Add to that a passion for what he does and talent, and you’ve got a winning combo. The menu is eclectic, combining Asian, Mediterranean and Latin influences from his Argentinian roots, and then add in some American comfort food. He always has a creative touch. Creative not as in precious, but in adding a touch of excitement and more taste. For instance, his truffle tuna bites are succulent morsels of tuna on a thin slice of toasted bread flown in from Spain, rubbed with garlic, on a bed of guacamole with aji Amarillo aioli and microgreens. Another winner is the braised short rib on a steamed bun with slaw, arugula, pickled onion and aji aioli.
The “steamed bun” category deserved further exploration with appealing options like asparagus and guacamole, panko crusted jumbo shrimp and crispy chicken wings, among others. If you’re still hungry after sharing those two dishes, I suggest ordering from the “tostas” category which are open faced sandwiches on delicious thin, crusty bread. We had hoped to try the 18 month aged jamon serrano with tomato emulsion, Manchego cheese and Kalamata crema but unfortunately they were out of ham. We opted instead for the seared New York Steak with chimichurri – good, but not great. Next time I’ll go for the braised lamb with goat cheese, piquillo peppers, pickled onion and house tzatziki (as I mentioned, creative combos of ingredients).
Thsre’s a solid selction of salads and for a brunch, the broken eggs selection sounds appealing. These include huevos rotos con salmon — three sunny side eggs with cured salmon, garlic fries and sofrito or a similar combo with braised lamb or serrano ham.
Other menu selections, with three or four options per category, include vegetables such as the Instagram favorite quinoa cremosa like a risotto with Manchego and mushroom confit; burgers — meat, fish and veggie versions; grilled fish; duck confit; and meat. Evidence of the value pricing – a 16 ounce New York steak with chimichurri and house fries for $35 and the half rack of lamb with accompaniments for $18.
There’s a well chosen list of wines, beers from around the world, and cocktails. Be sure to try their housemade lemonade with basil and mint, and the crazy berries red sangria made with raspberries and chunks of apple. Glasses of wine are $7 or $8 and bottles start at $35.
The restaurant seats 50 indoors and in an outdoor style café. There’s also bar seating and free parking. Bites, broken eggs, steamed buns (3) and tostas are $14 each. Burgers and salads are $13 and $14.
So why did Starobinsky name his gastrobar Lettuce & Tomato? Early in his career he worked in a sandwich restaurant and all day long had to ask people if they wanted lettuce and tomato. So he vowed that when he opened a restaurant he wouldn’t offer lettuce and tomato garnishes as an option. You will find arugula here, but no lettuce.
Lettuce & Tomato Miami, 17070 W Dixie Hwy, North Miami Beach, Phone: (305) 760-2260.
