“The national treasure of Spain”, its caviar, that’s how many in the food world describe Spain’s top ham known as “jamon”. After having gone to Spain for over 30 years and enjoying it on every trip, I have to agree. And now, the finest of the jamones, is available in Miami, but more on that a little later. What many don’t know is that there are three levels of jamon, which you need to know if you want the best (plus, it’s interesting). The difference in the levels and quality of product (and price) are whether they’re pure bred pigs, the feed (grain or acorns), caged or free range, and quality control.
The entry level shall we say is jamon serrano, followed by iberico, and then the pinnacle is jamon iberico de bellota. The top pigs are acorn fed, free range and pure bred and come from the Jabugo area. The meat is cured from three to four years. And then it must be properly cut to release the best texture and flavor — in very thin slices. You can tell the best as it melts (yes melts) in your mouth. One of the things I found most intriguing is that since the fat comes from acorn bred pigs, it’s low in cholesterol. In fact, Spanish jamon has been called “olive oil on four legs”.
I was given the demonstration and a tasting at the Setai Hotel of five highly creative, delicious tapas using Jamon sponsored by Cinco Jotas who is producing and importing what the hotel chef Thomas Griese called “the Ferrari” of jamon. Dishes included Green Asparagus custard, heirloom Tomato, Diced Cinco Jotas Iberico ham and emulsion; mini cone of creme fraiche with chives and ham, farm quail poached eggs; and classic Spanish potato croquetas, pommes puree with ham, a stunner. They were all excellent. At the same time, I have to say I also like my jamon straight — plain, served with crusty bread, possibly some manchego cheese and full bodied red wine (we had Montecillo). I know you’re probably dying to know where you can eat or buy the jamon. It’s sold in packages at Marky’s and Epicure and besides The Setai, it’s on the menu at gastrobars Bulla and Perfecto. My mouth waters just thinking about it.
Photography by William Oberheiser
