Friends had told me there’s a “new” Tangier, and after a few wonderful days, it turns out they were completely right. Beyond the fascinating Kasbah and the rich culture—which instantly brings to mind the legends who helped make it famous, from Malcolm Forbes, Yves Saint Laurent, and Liz Taylor to Mick Jagger and Anthony Bourdain—it’s a city of grand parks, imposing mountain villas in what our guide called the “Beverly Hills” of Tangier, and chic boutique hotels blending Art Deco with Moroccan sensibilities.
Here’s my Tangier travel guide, from getting around and where to stay to where to eat and shopping.
The “new” Tangier
You might be surprised to read this, but Mr. W and I actually agreed it could be a very appealing destination for Americans looking to retire away from the usual touristed European spots. It offers a low cost of living, modern apartments, a delightful year-round climate, and remarkably hospitable people (plus, we felt totally safe the entire time).
Here’s a look at what you can expect to do, where to stay, the incredible food, and some shopping tips.
Kasbah
Tangier Travel Guide: Getting Around & The Ideal Itinerary
We took the ferry from Tarifa, Spain, the southernmost point of the European mainland—an easy, breezy one-hour trip. While many travelers just pop over for a day trip to see the Kasbah and head right back, we chose 3 days / 2 nights, which felt like the ideal amount of time.
Ferry from Tarifa to Tangier
We booked a six-hour tour through ToursByLocals, which we always use. What made it extra special wasn’t just having an exceptionally knowledgeable guide, but the pacing: half the tour was by car and the other half was walking through the pedestrian-only Kasbah.
The Driving Tour: This allowed us to see the newer, modern areas of the city, notable landmarks like the Tangier residence of the King, sprawling parks, the stadium slated to host the 2030 World Cup, and—in a fun surprise—even wild boars!
The Kasbah Walking Tour: This is everything you picture when you dream of Morocco. Think narrow, winding streets lined with whitewashed buildings, intricate ceramic tiles, and wrought-iron door panels. You’ll pass workmen and artisans hard at work, shops brimming with rich textiles and ceramics, and lively food vendors.
Villa Mabrouka
Tangier Travel Guide: Food, Wine, and Culinary Highlights
Because Morocco produces virtually all of its own food, you can expect the absolute freshest produce, baby lamb, and beef—all prepared with unique, aromatic seasonings.Moroccan food is a rich, aromatic blend of Berber, Arab, Andalusian, and Mediterranean flavors defined by sweet-and-savory pairings and masterfully balanced spices. Typical dishes include the tagine, a stew with protein and vegetables; couscous; and pastilla, flaky pastry stuffed with spiced chicken or pigeon and dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar.Since this is a predominantly Muslim country, many traditional restaurants do not serve wine, or liquor.
Noe though that Tangier has historically been shaped by many cultures besides Moroccan, including Spanish and French which is reflected in the local food scene.
El Morocco Club
One evening, we had dinner at Villa Mabrouka, the former private villa of Yves Saint Laurent and now a boutique hotel with several restaurants. Perched on the cliffs with a stunning rooftop terrace overlooking the sea, it is an absolute dream. Afterward, we headed over to El Morocco Club right in the historic Kasbah. It’s a gorgeous spot for fine dining blending Mediterranean and local flavors with a piano bar—and yes, would you believe they serve a Moroccan red wine that both of us gave high marks to?
Elizabeth Taylor Suite
Mick Jagger Suite
Malcolm Forbes Suite
Tangier Travel Guide: Where to Stay: Riad Dar Saba (“Saba’s House”)
If you go, do yourself a favor and stay at the Art Deco-inspired Riad Dar Saba (“Saba’s House”) right in the heart of the Kasbah. The owner, Roya Lamine, has exquisite taste—and I mean exquisite.
Each of the six suites and rooms in this first category Riad, which is the equivalent classification to a five star hotel,is uniquely named after a celebrity who shaped Tangier’s history, with decor inspired by them — Barbara Hutton, Antoni Gaudi, Malcolm Forbes, Liz Taylor, Mick Jagger and Ibn Battuta, a renowned Moroccan explorer and traveler.Roya showcases her international art collection throughout the Riad along with Roya art, decor pieces designed by her.
Rooftop terrace
Lobby
Breakfast on the rooftop terrace at Sabas House
Breakfast on the rooftop terrace is included, featuring fresh fruit, a selection of French and Moroccan breads, and sweeping 360-degree views out toward the Strait of Gibraltar.There’s also a lounge and bar and warm hospitality. (Bonus tip: They also feature a traditional Moroccan hammam on-site if you want to fully unwind!)
New Tangier
Tangier Travel Guide: Shopping
And then there is the shopping. If you love beautiful things, Tangier is a treasure trove. Look for everything ceramic, handwoven textiles that are perfect for scarves or throws, beautifully crafted beach bags, and caftans that can take you effortlessly from the beach to a sophisticated dinner. I was especially drawn to the loose, long, flowing dresses in bold prints and unexpected colors—pieces that feel both distinctly Moroccan and wonderfully modern.
But don’t limit yourself to the traditional bazaar. Venture beyond it and you’ll discover a very different side of Tangier: a new generation of designers and makers who are reinterpreting Moroccan craftsmanship for a contemporary audience.
One of our favorite discoveries was New Tangier, founded by designer Kenza Bennani. The brand takes traditional Moroccan craftsmanship and gives it a sophisticated, modern sensibility, with an emphasis on beautiful natural fabrics, timeless silhouettes and vibrant color – shirts for men and women, caftans, harem pants, robes. New Tangier has a showroom in Tangier as well as a boutique at the legendary La Mamounia in Marrakech, making it an easy stop even if you’re not heading north.
Habibi Burton
We also had the wonderful opportunity to meet famous American interior designer Frank de Biasi, whose love affair with Tangier goes back more than two decades. Together with his partner, Gene Meyer, he created Habibi Burton concept store, a celebration of Moroccan craftsmanship that brings together furniture, decorative objects for the home and other pieces designed by the duo and made in Morocco.
Even more memorable was being invited into their extraordinary Tangier home. Created by combining three separate houses into one, the approximately 4,500-square-foot residence is a riot of color, pattern, antiques and Moroccan craftsmanship, yet somehow feels completely livable and is incredibly stylish. The house has been featured in Architectural Digest, and seeing it in person was a reminder of just how effortlessly Tangier blends its Moorish, Mediterranean, African and European influences.
And if, while wandering through Tangier, you find yourself thinking, I could actually live here, there may even be an opportunity: the house is reportedly for sale for (price on request). Click here to see more.
Tangier Travel Guide: The Important Takeaway
For us, though, the strongest impression was simply how easy it felt to settle into Tangier. There is an unmistakable sense of history here and a desire to keep traditional culture, but also a feeling that the city is looking forward. Old-world craftsmanship, international design, sophisticated fashion and a new generation of creative people are coming together in a way that makes Tangier feel like a place in the middle of an exciting reinvention.
3 Responses
Great review. I would go in a heartbeat.
Have you ever been there?
Exciting piece – the walking tour of tge Kasbah I did last summer clearly was not enough to really experience Tanger!