Friends had told me there’s a “new” Tangier, and after a few wonderful days, it turns out they were completely right. Beyond the fascinating Kasbah and the rich culture—which instantly brings to mind the legends who helped make it famous, from Malcolm Forbes, Yves Saint Laurent, and Liz Taylor to Mick Jagger and Anthony Bourdain—it’s a city of grand parks, imposing mountain villas in what our guide called the “Beverly Hills” of Tangier, and chic boutique hotels blending Art Deco with Moroccan sensibilities. Here's my Tangier travel guide, from getting around and where to stay to where to eat and shopping.