Ever since I heard the team behind favorite and hot spot Tam Tam opened popup Double Luck Chinese in North Miami, I’ve been trying to get a reservation with the only possibilities around 9:30 or 10 pm. Happily, with Miami quiet these days, spots have opened up at all hours so off we went and saw why it’s such a  success that they’re planning to make it a permanent restaurant. Why is it special? Exciting and different menu of Sichuan cuisine, fair prices, attentive service, and a colorful ambiance that’s a little like a speakeasy. 

It’s an intimate space, with red interior and dim lighting and, of course, Chinese lantern lighting. It seats 50 with tables and banquettes and 10 at the eat in bar. There’s no liquor license, but there’s a good selection of wines as low as $12 a glass or $48 a bottle, sakes and beer, and you can bring your own bottle for a corkage fee of $25.

The small but well curated menu is divided into appetizers, vegetables, rice and noodles, Tofu/meat/seafood and desserts. It’s a good idea to share. We were four people. We ordered three entrees, a fried rice and two vegetables and it was just enough food.

Mushroom lovers, we started with the cloud ear mushroom which were unlike any other mushroom I’ve eaten. They were a little crunchy and have a slightly earthy taste. For a second vegetable we couldn’t decide between the sweet and spicy long beans or the tempura eggplant. We opted for the latter which looked like a corn dog as it was heavily breaded and then fried.

My favorite dish was the Hunan steamed fish, a branzino that was perfectly spiced and served with some greens and chili peppers. It was very tasty and so tender the waiter could separate it tableside with a spoon. Our accompaniment was the crab fried rice which many reviewers gave high marks to  for its pieces of chunky crab, a favorite with our foodie friends. On another occasion I had the Wok Hei cabbage that was very good as well.

With duck being a “go to” dish for us all, we tried the tea smoked duck with bao buns that didn’t disappoint.

Next time I’m looking forward to trying the signature flaming Hennessey orange chicken that, looking around, was a crowd favorite, and the char siu ribs rubbed with five spices and glazed so they’re crunchy.

Expect to pay about $130 for two plus tax and tip. Note, the noise level is energetic even early in the evening.

Double Luck Chinese is open Wednesday through Sunday from 5:30 p.m.. It’s in the former New Schnitzel House which still has the name up. At the time of my visits there was no name announcing Double Luck Chinese. If that’s still the case  you can also confirm you’re in the right place by seeing the red Chinese lanterns hanging from the roof. Free parking is in an adjacent lot.

Double Luck Chinese, 1085 NE 79^th Street, Miami. Reservations on Resy.