By Ralph de La Portilla
For sure, Little Havana Miami is well known as a tourist attraction in Miami, but if you haven’t been there in awhile, you’re missing some of the new restaurants, bars and shops that have opened. I thought it was time to get a tourism pro who knows not only what’s new, but also, the history of the area, some of which came as a surprise to me (as in some of the first residents were from Greece and Syria). So here you have it, a Day in Little Havana, newest in my series – Karen
Where Is LIttle Havana Miami And a Short History:
The enclave monikered “Little Havana,” just west of Miami’s Brickell Financial District and Downtown Miami, is actually a collection of distinctly different neighborhoods, each with their own particular traits and characteristics. There is no consensus on its territorial boundaries or total population, but local historians can agree on how it all began. Two adjacent neighborhoods, dating back to the infancy of the city: Shenandoah & Riverside. Essentially “suburbs” of the early city of Miami—only separated by the Tamiami Trail (US HWY 41)—both neighborhoods were already ethnically diverse 100 years ago. Immigrants from Greece and Syria abounded alongside smatterings of southern whites in Riverside, while the Shenandoah area south of SW 8th Street was Miami’s most significant Jewish neighborhood. Jewish families, however, started moving away from the area throughout the 1950s favoring the rise of fabulous hotels, tourism, and other opportunities across Biscayne Bay in Miami Beach. That exodus from the area triggered a considerable decline in property values with scores of vacant storefronts along the Tamiami Trail (today’s Calle Ocho).
In 1959, the Cuban Revolution, perpetrated by the Castro brothers, changed Cuba and Miami forever. For many Cuban exiles, or refugees, the neighborhoods on either side of 8th Street became their first stomping grounds in their newly adopted country. Soon after, family-owned businesses, some of which still exist, along the main thoroughfare, started to flourish and Little Havana was born.
Miami’s Little Havana neighborhood has been in the midst of a renaissance over the last couple of decades, attracting over six million travelers every year according to local officials. With those lofty numbers, one could argue that this unique American ethnic enclave is the cultural beating heart of the modern city of Miami itself, and the birthplace of the region’s Spanish-language twang.
That said, many locals and visitors alike still don’t really know all the gems that can be explored in this National Treasure District insofar as its shopping, nightlife, and storied eateries are concerned. So, here’s a shortlist of places, all within a 1.5-mile path (between SW 22nd & 10th Avenues) along the legendary Calle Ocho (SW 8th Street) corridor to kickstart a deeper understanding of “La Pequeña Habana.”
- Retail/Shopping
Kcüll (1358 & 1735 SW 8th St), a consignment boutique shop with two locations only blocks apart, bills itself as a collective of artisans, with everything from handmade jewelry to handcrafted candles. Kcüll (pronounced Kay-cool) storefronts are jam packed with colorful curiosities (notably, their hand-painted cedar box Cuban double-nine domino sets!) by several local creators, and is definitely worth a dedicated look-see…
Little Havana Visitors Center (1600 SW 8th Street),is a well-appointed souvenir shop sporting unique (and cheeky!) Miami-centric garments, all sorts of magnets, mugs, and a rather grand assortment of memorabilia and artwork. As far as souvenir shops go, this one is a far cry from those littered throughout New York’s Time Square, so much so that locals can actually appreciate it.
Havana Classic Cigar Factory (1419 SW 8th Street), a traditional, family-run cigar factory and lounge with signature “mocktails” and their own house blend of Cuban-style espressos is not a traditional retailer, but that doesn’t mean one can’t shop for some one-of-a-kind items for sale here.
Art, coffee, tobacco-related accessories, and yes, plenty of hand rolled cigars, adorn this traditional factory. Be sure to say hello to the master rollers, Roberto and Dunia right near the front entrance as you stroll inside. Their rolling experience spans decades on either side of the Florida Straits.
Havana Collection (1421 SW 8th Street), a family-owned classic guayabera shirts, Panama hats & women’s apparel boutique shop adjacent to Havana Classic Cigars is truly an attraction in and of itself. Aside from the main store, the premises holds a private collection of classic cars, artwork, antiques, memorabilia, and some exhibits in its upstairs space. To view the family’s collection, there is a small fee of $3.
- Nightlife
Hoy como Ayer (2212 SW 8th Street), a legendary live-music watering hole, it was newly resurrected after a lengthy hiatus and under new ownership, but honors its lengthy tradition of featuring the city’s most eclectic live music acts over the last 25 years. This venue is only open Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 8pm to 3am, so you’ll have to plan ahead.
Ball & Chain (1513 SW 8th Street), probably the signature venue in the historic heart of Little Havana with creative cocktails, delicious appetizers, and some of the finest live music on that strip—not to mention its colorful and eclectic 90-year history! This venue is open seven days per week starting at 12 noon, and also offers delectable food items.
La Trova (971 SW 8th Street), headed by James Beard Award-winning chef, Michelle Bernstein, in partnership with famed Cuban mixologist, Julio Cabrera and his team of Cuban cantineros, this iconic landmark has been named the past two years as one of the Top 50 Bars in the World!
Enough said. Reservations suggested.
Calle Dragones (1036 SW 8th Street), is one of the newest additions to the Calle Ocho cityscape. Inspired by the Chinatown in Havana, Cuba, it’s a restaurant featuring an Asian-Cuban fusion, but it’s so much more… With acrobatic dance performances and scintillating live music, it promises to deliver a spectacularly memorable experience for all.
Restaurants/Eateries in Little Havana Miami
–Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocina (1442 SW 8th Street) is probably the most popular eatery on the main drag of Calle Ocho, featuring the best mojitos (probably in the world!), live music, and very authentic Creole Cuban cuisine. Even the virgin mojitos are heavenly.
Sala’o (1642 SW 8th Street), the ”elegant little sister restaurant” of Old’s Havana with an emphasis on seafood, but other offerings are offered here, as well. As it’s the same owners of Old’s, it has the exact same sumptuous mojitos, but the menu and the vibe is its very own.
Habana con B (1005 SW 8th Street), a fabulous, cozy, new family-owned restaurant that will transport its patrons, without fail, straight to Cuba… So cozy, in fact, you’ll feel as if you’re in a Cuban grandmother’s home. Don’t miss out on their homemade croquetas and their ropa vieja empanadas.
Sanguich de Miami (2057 SW 8th Street), considered quite possibly the finest Cuban sandwich shop on the planet, has become a Miami staple in a relatively short period of time. Their brined deli ham and house pickle chips complement the most legendary sandwiches in the city.
Azúcar Cuban Ice Cream Company (1503 SW 8th Street) is mentioned in both, Condé Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure as one of the Top 30 Ice Creameries in the World! Suzy Batllé, owner and brainchild of a plethora of Cuban-inspired flavors, opened this small storefront over a decade ago, and people can’t get enough of it. Try their best-sellers, Abuela María & Café con Leche flavors.
La Colada Gourmet (1518 SW 8th Street) is a family-owned coffeehouse, and they certainly take their cafecitos seriously! They roast their arabica beans onsite and can serve up the heavenly, curiously strong concoction hot or on ice.
Be sure to bookmark this page for whenever you’ll find your way into the area. It is by no means an exhaustive list, but it’s a great way to start to capture the essence of what Calle Ocho in the Little Havana Miami neighborhood has to offer.
About Ralph de La Portilla
Ralph de la Portilla is a tourism professional based in Miami with a background spanning over 20 years in South Florida and Cuba travel; entrusted with management, development, and execution of excursions for hundreds of corporate and private clients.
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