When we walked into Raos Miami in the Loews Miami Beach Hotel, the newest outpost of the 127 year old iconic Italian restaurant founded in New York, I smelled Italian comfort food. Then I saw the bright red and rich wood décor with historic photos adorning the walls, and the patrons’ contented faces, many of small groups of friends or business associates enjoying their southern Neopolitan cuisine. Yes, I thought, no wonder co-owner Ron Straci says Rao’s is where every night feels like a Sunday dinner.
This family owned group with restaurants in New York, Los Angeles and now Miami knows their business for sure. Other restaurants in Miami should take note of their service – a seriously well oiled and friendly team, from the white jacket clad waiters to the busboys that don’t miss a beat.The food reminded me of Italian home cooking, though taken up a few notches for sure. And the large portions for most dishes, unusual these days, also qualified on that score.
The menu is divided into raw bar, salads and soups, antipasti, pastas, main course, sides and dessert. We started with their signature dish, Rao’s traditional meatballs. I’m not one to wax enthusiastic about meatballs but let me tell you, they were amazing and will be on my best dishes of the year list. Each was double the size of an ordinary meatball, and packed with flavor that came from they’re being braised in a luscious marinara sauce all day.
At our great waiter Timothy’s suggestion we had the mozzarella carrozza, mozzarella “sandwiches” in a marinara and lemon sauce with garlic and wine. They were perfectly fried, crispy on the outside and oozing cheese when cut.
Mr. W had the veal chop to which he chose an add on of mushrooms in a Marsala wine sauce. It was one of three sauces also including agro dulce, pizzaiola and demi glace that you can add to any menu item for more complex flavor. He did everything short of licking the platter he liked it so much, unusual for him since he has become Mr. Super Picky.
I opted for the lobster fra diavolo which had a large quantity of Maine lobster chunks with angel hair pasta and a spicy sauce. We both shared another signature dish, the peas with onions and prosciutto. I’m always happy to see peas on the menu which is rare, and here even better with the welcome combination.
Next time I’d like to try the fiochette pasta that are purse raviolis with pears, ricotta cheese, brown butter, sage and dried cranberries ($28) Uncle Vincent’s Lemon Chicken, half a chicken with Uncle Vincent’s famous lemon sauce ($35); and the veal parmigiana.
As you can imagine, after all this food, even though we took home a lot given the size of the portions, we only had one dessert – pistachio ice cream. Though my favorite pistachio ice cream is the soft serve variety, this one was very satisfying and hit the spot.
There’s a good size wine list with a glass starting at $17 (5 ounce pour) and bottles at $68. Cocktails are $23-$25.
The exact dinner at Raos Miami we had that I described: a cocktail and glass of wine each, two appetizers and two entrees, the one side and dessert was about $300 plus tax and tip. If you want to bring down the cost, given the size of the portions, you could eliminate an entrée (the ones we had were among the highest priced) and an appetizer and the bill would come in around $200 ++.
Raos Miami at the Loewe’s Miami Beach Hotel, 1601 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach. It’s open for dinner seven days a week. Valet parking is $22 and there’s also a municipal parking lot across the street.
