New Mexican restaurant KoKo Coconut Grove, like its sister Bakan in Wynwood, is the kind of place you’ll go once and come back to multiple times, much as my foodie friends have done. I went to check it out since Bakan is a fave Mexican restaurant in Miami, and I found the food at KoKo yummy, and the place comfortable and attractive. And another plus, while you’re in the neighborhood, a few blocks away is the new outpost of cult bagel place, El Bagel in CocoWalk.
At 6,000 square feet, it’s spacious, with a large outdoor covered area surrounded by a cactus garden and lush vegetation, and an indoor area with a stunning display of over 400 mezcals and tequilas. An inviting bar that seats 20 connects the indoor and outdoor seating areas. Touches of pre-Hispanic Mexico are prevalent throughout, from a macrame mural and a feathered headpiece, to the use of natural materials, and a wall with an orange fluorescent geometric design that brings to mind a contemporary take on a hieroglyphic motif. In the indoor area, stacks of cherry wood used in KoKo’s woodfired cooking bestride an open kitchen with handsome copper pots hanging from the ceiling.
The large and appealing menu is divided into well-known Mexican favorites like antojos (starters – guac, corn, etc.), melted cheeses, tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas, Oaxacan moles, fresh salads with proteins, and a vegetarian selection of tacos. Almost all of these dishes are priced in the high teens to low twenties.
Dishes come with a basket of tortillas, which KoKo is especially proud of – as they should be. They’re made from a blue criollo corn only grown at an altitude of 1,800 meters on volcanic soil in Mexico. The team grinds, rolls and prepares the tortillas from scratch every day.
Larger plates include fish served as seafood cocktails, ceviche and tostaditos, and a wonderful selection of dishes made on their wood fire grill and wood fire rotisserie powered by cherry wood, which imparts a lovely, slightly smoky flavor. This includes whole chicken, fish and meats, all served on a wooden plank which they’ll pair with a glass of mezcal. You can opt for a half or whole cherry-wood organic rotisserie chicken complete with chile relleno stuffed with Oaxaca cheese, refried black beans, grilled corn, guacamole and grilled knob onion ($21 for l lb; $31 for 2 lbs). Additionally, KoKo offers a whole red snapper with sides (MP) and another solid selection of steaks ($35 – $77), an entire bone of short rib ($70), octopus ($35) and Madagascar giant prawns (MP), which all come with the same sides as the rotisserie chicken.
The most unique thing about the menu – and most unusual to find in Miami – are the pre-Hispanic insect dishes including agave worms, ants, ant eggs and crispy grasshoppers ($3, $4 and MP). They’re said to be rich in protein and tasty but I haven’t been bold enough to try them.
Don’t miss the guacamole which has just the right texture, slightly chunky, and perfectly seasoned ($15). On one visit, my friend and I shared the chicken which has a unique orange achiote marmalade.Their signature Mexican-style ceviche, Bakan, with local caught fish, was super fresh and perfectly seasoned ($17). I also enjoyed the carnitas prensadas, made with pork, black beans, guacamole and chicharron (3 to an order, $20). Don’t share them – they’re so tasty you’ll want to eat the order yourself! On another occasion, I enjoyed the fish tacos made with sea bass, veggies, guac, black beans and yuzu basil ($29).
A Mexican friend who knows her food swears by the mole negro made with black mole, chicken breast, goat cheese, sesame seeds and house rice And sure enough, Mr. W – who has become pickier than even I – raved about two moles he had, the coloradito with chilean seabass, string beans, sesame seeds and house rice ($29) and the mole negro with chicken breast, goat cheese, sesame seeds and house rice ($23).
For dessert, don’t miss the thick sugared churros served with a chocolate dip and cinnamon ice cream ($12).
There’s a selection of unique margaritas and other cocktails such as the Mango Petacon and the Sera Sandia Sera Melon for $16 each, or the Ambiciosa for $19, along with Mexican beers and micheladas and a small wine list. Tequilas and mezcals are available to order for tasting, and wines are available to order by the glass.
KoKo Coconut Grove is open for lunch and dinner daily, visit KoKo at 2856 Tigertail Avenue, Coconut Grove, FL 33133.
