Despite the big farm to table movement in the US, it’s still not easy to eat food products that have real taste, even in pricey restaurants. The kind of restaurants one finds in Greece, Italy and Spain — simple food where the natural flavors shine. At Valentia Miami, an import from Valencia in Spain, the potatoes taste like potatoes, the meat has a beefy taste, and the fish is fresh as can be. Plus, the chef has the right touch with the seasonings. The restaurant, at 1450 Brickell Ave, Phone: (786) 542-8098 opposite the Four Seasons Hotel, is attracting a growing and loyal clientele with next to no PR, social media or advertising. It’s word of mouth from happy diners who also appreciate the very good quality and value.
At lunch its mostly a business crowd, especially young professionals. Evenings and weekends, there’s a good mix of ages and some families, mostly from the “neighborhood” – Brickell and Key Biscayne.
I’ve gone there several times which is a lot for me considering that I always need to try new places. I really like it. Now let’s get to the dishes to order. Which starters? A tough choice, as all have been delicious and then there are others I’m dying to try. Probably number one are the grilled artichokes with jamon iberico and fried egg which are combined tableside. Croquettes, either with Iberico ham and chicken or shrimp and mushrooms are perfectly fried, and among the better ones I’ve had. In line for next time are the anchovy filets from the Cantabrican Sea served with country bread topped with tomato and the patatas bravas – fried potato in home made spicy sauce with aioli. For those wanting a light meal, a starter or two with one of their salads, or plate of grilled vegetables will do just fine, or perhaps steak or tuna tartare.
Main course categories include meats, fish and a large selection of rices (after all, the owner is from Valencia, the birthplace of paella). On different occasions we tried the solomillo and the entrecote. Steaks are US Prime and made in a Josper oven which ensures they’re perfectly charred yet tender, and prepared with just a little seasalt. Perfect. They’re served with crispy house made fries and red piquillo peppers. There are also sure to appeal to their Latin crowd dishes including crispy boneless baby piglet and Iberian pork shoulder.
All fish is flown in fresh from Spain, including Lubina (branzino), Dorade ( sea bream), rodaballo (turbot) and Dover sole. The fish is served whole, or they will filet it for you as you wish. Other options include cod fish with aioli and apples, and cod fish cheeks with clams and scallions. All are served with accompaniments of fried eggplant with honey, roasted potatoes and asparagus. The fish is exquisite, just the way you find it in Spain which for me is the gold standard in seafood (as it was for R.W.Apple, the former restaurant and food critic of the New York Times who covered Europe from Paris). I like the fact that every entrée has an accompaniment, so there’s no need to order pricey “sides” .They don’t even have them on the menu.
The last section of the menu is devoted to rices. Find three types of paella, including the traditional Valenciana with chicken and vegetables, and shellfish and pork rib selections. Other rices include the popular one with the large, much valued red Cardenal prawn with squid; oxtail rice; and a Vegan option. All rice orders are based on a minimum of two persons.
Signature desserts include ganache de chocolate — chocolate ganache with bread, extra virgin olive oil and salt and torrija caramelizada — caramelized French toast with cinnamon ice cream and vanilla foam.
If you went to its predecessor, Perfecto, you’ll notice welcome changes. The décor is simple yet stylish, and happily, the music is kept at low levels. Choose to sit outdoors at high top tables (and more of a party atmosphere, especially on weekends), indoors at tables or at the centrally located bar overlooking the open kitchen and table seating.
Not surprisingly, the wine list includes a well curated selected of Spanish wines. Wines by the glass (a 5 ounce pour) start at $9 and bottles at $38. Wait until you see the wine glass. It has to be the largest crystal wine glass ever, so big that it seems that an entire half bottle can fit in the one glass. The owner said he chose it because it looks regal on the table (“Queda imperial en la mesa”), and I agree.
Prices are reasonable considering the quality. Starters and salads are in the teens except for those with luxury items like Jamon Iberico de Bellota, truffles and foie gras . Entrees and rice dishes are in the twenties and prime steaks over $30.
There’s valet parking for $10. Lunch and dinner are served daily. A three course executive lunch is offered Monday through Friday for $22.
