The name Vintro in red neon on the white façade always catches my eye when I go to the Bass Museum. Little would I have imagined a restaurant like Vintro Kitchen, but thanks to my hairdresser in the know who never steers me wrong, I checked it out.
The décor by Guillermo de Yavorsky combines vintage and retro (thus the name Vintro), that’s both stylish and comfortable with a touch of whimsy. Design highlights include dramatic 30 foot ceilings with Saturn lighting, pop art (loved the portrait of Mona Lisa made with espresso capsules) strategically placed, and a wood counter with promises of culinary seduction – oversized bowl with gorgeous, ripe tomatoes, wire basket brimming with citrus, a large olive jar with 5 different varieties and I said to myself, I’m going to like this place. And everything got even better after that.
The credentials of Executive Chef Keith Suarino speak volumes for the selection of quality ingredients, creativity in pairings, and talented preparations of the food: graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York; studies and apprenticeship in Parma and a two star Michelin restaurant in Sicily; work with Laurent Gras’ one star Michelin restaurant in Chicago; and most recently, heading up the fish restaurant at Mario Batali’s wildly successful Eataly.
Not surprisingly, fish and risotto are the menu stars with vegetables and lamb close behind. On the fish front, Peruvian sous chef Luis Antezana, formerly of Juvia, adds his flair and way with seasonings in the daily ceviche and fredo. Other fish standouts are the grilled octopus with fennel, orange and red wine and a fish carpaccio which changes according to availability.
Keith managed a risotto station as one of his Italian stints, so his repertoire includes no fewer than 40 kinds, a rainbow, from black and orange to red, green and gray. The risotto of the day was mushroom with truffle oil and it couldn’t have been better – al dente with just the right amount of cream. We followed that course with succulent lamb chops, perfectly charred on the outside and pink inside, accompanied by quinoa and vegetables (loved them). Do not miss the fire-roasted baby brussel sprouts, an innovative treatment with honey and pistachios that tasted like candy (they’d be a great healthy snack), the flavorful cauliflower with bagna cauda – anchovy paste—and manchego cheese or the orzo mac n’cheese. We finished the meal with a fennel and lemon pannacotta.
Besides the indoor seating, there’s outdoor seating along Collins Canal and a soon to open rooftop which can be rented for private parties. It’s also worth noting that there was an attractive crowd the night we went.
Small plates are priced in the teens, entrees from $26-$29, sides average $7. Vintro Kitchen, 2216 Park Avenue, South Beach (T.305-674-9200 ) is open for lunch and dinner. Go while you can as it’s sure to be constantly full come the season.
And while you’re in the neighborhood, don’t miss the Bass Museum’s Gold exhibit. It’s a real jewel.
Photo of facade from www.hotels.com; food photography by William Oberheiser
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