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Another New Fave: KLIMA

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There’s no lack of Spanish restaurants in Miami. Most of them are tapas bars and tavernas  , Old World style restaurants of which the best is La Dorada, or the newer entrants, gastro lounges. Finally, we now have a sophisticated, contemporary Spanish restaurant in both design and cuisine with a cool European vibe in KLIMA, 210 23rd Street (T 786-453-2779 ). And it’s a winner.

When I walked in and saw the casual chic contemporary ambiance complete with rich woods, leather rugs and built in sofas, a steel alphabet sculpture by renowned Barcelona artist Jaume Plensa,*  and lighting that flatters, I thought of the  Hotel Omm in Barcelona, one of the hot places in the city. And lo and behold, the owners of KLIMA, Pablo Fernández-Valdés and Yago Giner opened the Omm, going on later to start the first of several restaurants in the US.

The owners are on top of everything as well as being welcoming hosts, and it shows.  The cuisine is inspired by Barcelona and also informed by the flavors and preparations of the Western Mediterranean. Many of the dishes are unlike any other you’ve seen in Miami, unexpected flavor combinations, and all of the ingredients used are top quality.

We started with the half cooked egg, potato parmentier and Iberian ham. At the touch of the fork the egg bathed the creamy,  twicely pureed potatoes in its essence, and the richness of the ham gave it all a kick. From there we tried the fennel, burrata, kalamata olives and dried tomatoes, the crunch of the fennel contrasting beautifully with the creaminess of the burrata. Another salad we’re putting on our to do list for next time is the tuna belly, tomato and spring onion that looked delicious.

Next up we opted for the white fish ceviche of the day with avocado, Chilean green onions, salmon roe and togarashi (a spicy, powdered assortment of dried chili peppers and other seasonings). The day’s fish selection was mackerel which isn’t usually one of my favorites, but as I always say, if the fish is super fresh, whichever variety it is, it  will be wonderful. This is definitely one to put on your to order list.

And speaking of superfresh, perfectly pepared fish, we vouch for the red snapper, vegetables, Peruvian causa and orange roasted chicken glace. Mr. W. insisted on trying the veal cannelloni stuffed with veal that was stewed for 14 hours in Port wine with Parmigian cheese.  I was glad he insisted, as it was an outstanding dish.

We had to try one of the meat dishes in deference to our carnivore readers. The choices were rib eye with smoked eggplant and mustard; pork ribs with fingerling potatoes, garlic and shallots; and lamb shoulder with potato parmentier. We chose the latter. A few words about the impressive preparation. The lamb shoulder is seasoned with salt and pepper and put on the grill for a few minutes  before being slow cooked in a vacuum bag with a lot of oild and garlic. In all, it’s cooked in the oven for 16 hours with pepper. Meltingly tender, its richness  was complemented by the potato puree.

There’s a separate bar and lounge area, indoor and patio seating, all comfortable and inviting, much like being in a private home. The music is well curated, first loungey then progressing to upbeat soul, house and jazz, , and the noise level just where it should be.

Appetizers and salads range in the $20’s (except for 5 Jotas Iberian ham, called the caviar of Spain) ; raw bar dishes in the $30’s; and pastas, meats and fish from $30 to $48 except for the Josper rib eye for two which is $90.  The wine selection is well curated. If you like a full bodied, rich red wine do not miss the Marques de Murrietta 2008 ($70 a bottle). Bottles start at $40 and glasses of wine at $10. And if you’re a gin drinker try the Fifty Pounds brand from the U.K. It makes a perfect martini.

*Note about Jaume Plensa. If you’ve driven down South Bayshore Drive and have seen the colorful translucent sculptures on a pedestal at the Coconut Grove Bank site, soon to be the new Reem Koolhaus’ designed condo project, the artist is Plensa.

Photography by William Oberheiser

Klima Miami Beach Restaurant & Bar on Urbanspoon

Karen Escalera

Karen Escalera

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