Imagine combining some of the best food from Sugarcane with the privileged setting at Seaspice, the creative taste sensations of Modern Garden and professional, friendly service. That describes the “new” Seaspice Miami on the River, now a serious favorite of yours truly.

Last November the  owners brought over Angel Leon from Sugarcane, teamed him up with Benjamin Goldman formerly of Shikany  along with European managers on the service side, and there you have a new winning team. The crowd was also appealing – a  mix of Anglos and Latinos, good age mix, and cosmopolitan, judging by appearances. They got the lighting right – soft and romantic, and not competing with the lights from the River and its passing boats or the Miami skyline. The music was the right level, too. Choose to sit on the open air deck or my preferred place at night (it’s quieter) at a table inside, though next to the doors which are opened onto the deck.

The menu is of course heavy on seafood but is very well composed with dishes certain to appeal to all and for all occasions, from a whole roasted suckling pig and pizzettas to prime meats cooked over hot stones, pasta and risotto and appetizers that would make an ideal meal in themselves. We began with the octopus a la plancha which Mr. W proclaimed as good as it gets – tender, moist and perfectly charred on the outside. Served on a sizzling platter, it’s a crowd favorite. The top of the line 5 Jotas pata negra Iberian ham was on the menu teamed up with fresh berries, so yours truly couldn’t pass that up and in fact, wolfed it down.

Remembering how much we liked the salmon rosettes from Modern Garden, we jumped at the chance to order them and enjoyed them yet again, with their fresh, subtle flavors combining citrus, candied shallots, crème fraiche, crispy capers and smoked roe. For an entrée, the chef recommended the sea bass with a truffle porcini crust served on a bed of Yukon potatoes, all cooked in a wood fried oven.

The seabass was crunchy on top and moist and tender inside, a beautiful dish. I opted for the 2 pound succulent Maine lobster with avocado, asparagus, aji Amarillo and white sturgeon caviar, both elegant and tasty. Another crowd favorite I observed was the dover sole prepared tableside with olive oil and sage accompanied by parmigiano cheese and black truffle risotto. That’s for next time. Though the entrees all come with vegetables or other accompaniments, we couldn’t pass up the wild shitake mushrooms served with herbs and sundried mango.

There’s a separate menu of very original crudos such as fish & the meadow – yellowfin tuna tataki, seared foie gras, aji Amarillo, pickled zucchini, candied hazelnuts and pickled plum. Raw bar items as well as serious seafood platters complete the offerings. One called Seaspice Carnival must be the most extensive one I’ve ever heard about. Get this – 2 2 lb lobsters, 8 jumbo prawns, 24 oysters, Alaskan king crab, Florida stone crab, a variety of sashimis and 2 ounces of Sevruga caviar. Price? MP (probably for the owners of the yachts that dock here, the serious ones).

Make sure to leave room for a special dessert, the chocolate cremoso. It’s all at once sweet, salty, smooth and crunchy, a chocolate ganache that’s drizzled with caramel spiked with seasalt and toppped with toasted rice and cocomints, beads made from seaweed. Then it’s all topped with a crisp tuille wafer. Heavenly.

Appetizers range from $14 to $42; entrees from $25 to $95 with many in the $40’s; sides are $12; salads from $16; and pizzettas range from $17 to $38. Portions are good for sharing.

Glasses of wine start at  $10; bottles start at $50. There’s no provision for corkage. At lunch there’s a salad menu that’s ideal for a light lunch. Team it with a glass of wine and a coffee and count on about $50 a person. Go on a bright, cool day — one of those perfect days we have this time of year —  and while away the afternoon in the company of a good friend.

My verdict. Seaspice Miami is pricey but well worth it.

Seaspice, 422 N.W. North River Drive (T. 305-440-4200).