If you haven’t been to Mykonos or it has been awhile since you’ve been there, you won’t believe what it has become. And then there’s the Post Modern Greek cuisine. Going there for the first time, I expected the turquoise and cobalt blue waters and white washed houses (Mr.W , the artist, likened them to sugar cubes sprinkled on the arid hills) along with a buoyant club scene comparable to that of South Beach and Ibiza. I was not prepared for the high end design hotels, soignee beach clubs, Greek cuisine prepared at the hands of Michelin pedigreed chefs, and very distinctive fashion you can shop for until 5 a.m.. Even if you’re not planning on going to Greece , I thought you’d enjoy having a look at what is happening in the country’s number one tourism destination and seeing what’s happening with Greek cuisine. Here’s the first post in a two part series.
In my week in the islands, I discovered that Greek cuisine is so much more than what we see in the States – the Greek tavernas, home cooking diners, or the fancy seafood restaurants like those of the worldwide Estiatorio Milos group (including one in Miami). The farm to table movement has come to Mykonos along with chefs taking traditional Greek dishes like the iconic tomato, cucumber and feta cheese salad, lamb and saganaki, sometimes deconstructing them and adding elements of molecular cuisine or Peruvian, Japanese and Spanish flavors. And then there are the bold, creative presentations. Here are samples of some of the highlights of the dishes in my gastronomic adventure:
Dimitrius Christoforidis worked with uber chef Jeremiah Tower, learning the lessons of California cuisine, and brought those influences first to Athens in his farm to table Nice n’ Easy restaurants, and most recently to Mykonos at another Nice n’ Easy outpost and his newest venture, Nesaea. Together with his partner and executive chef, Chris Athanasiadis, they’re responsible for some of the tastiest and most creative dishes we sampled with locally sourced products. Nesaea is just steps from Kalafatis, the island’s ‘blue flag’ beach (a designation of the Foundation for Environmental Education for clean water and safety) and Agia Anna Beach club for a swim after lunch.
At its hillside casually chic hotel just outside town , Bill & Coo Suites and Lounge and its new seaside property, Bill & Coo Coast, Panagiotis Sopiadis and associate famed chef Anthinagoras Kostakos, also lead the way in creativity and presentation. Their flagship has been named Best Hotel restaurant twice by Conde Nast Traveler. Together with their pastry chef Angela Simou, an alum of Noma in Copenhagen, the restaurants shine even at breakfast. Then you have to factor in the stunning setting overlooking an infinity pool with twinkling LED lights appearing like so many stars, and beyond, the cobalt blue sea.
Take these typical breakfasts in a box, samplers of Greek specialties, an inspiration I wish other hotels would emulate.
Another gem is the newly opened restaurant of Kouros Hotel & Suites whose top chef George Roussakis with a pedigree that includes work at two star Michelin restaurants Green House in London and Spondi in Athens together with Food and Beverage Director John Chatzidrosos are cooking up some of the more exciting post modern Greek cuisine pictured here:
And how about this fried feta cheese!
Creative best describes the approach to bar snacks at Bollicine, a new concept store modeled after Milan’s famed 10 Corso Como with a chic roofop terrace, the Apertivo Bar. Our Negroni cocktail, a mixture of gin, Campari and soda , came with an ice snowball that added a whimsical touch to this traditional Italian aperitif. No ordinary nuts and olives here. The chef prepares a trio of bar snacks to match your cocktail. So we had a fig wrapped in bresaola with goat cheese; artichoke and bottarga; and black polenta with shrimp.
And even in Taverna fare, Greek comfort food,there’s no comparison between what you find at Greek-American tavernas and at Bakalo in a traditional Mykonian house dating to the 18th century. Principal Nikos Nanou, chef Yiannis Gavalas and his team return to the basics but with a revamp. The moussaka was so good it will be on my best dishes of the year list, and then there were the zucchini fritters, spicy cheese and lamb shank.
There were also notable meals like exquisitely grilled and presented calamari and fresh grilled fish served with a crisp white wine from Santorini in Spilia cave restaurant at Agia Anna beach; lamb braised with lemon and vegetables and the fresh grilled red mullet with fresh tomato and caper sauce at Niko’s Taverna; and one night, a chicken souvlaki sandwich with yogurt sauce and grilled vegetables (called “sexy healthy”) at Souvlaki Story.
One Response
Hello –
You are writing about the food oriented toward vacationers in vacation spots – which has always been oh so much more than the stereotyped Greek food we find in America, or now the highly fashioned fusion food. One of today’s Herald writers wrote about Greek fatoush salad – not Greek; Lebanese! And don’t get me on hummous – why do all Greek-American restaurants serve this delicious food – there is nothing Greek about it.
I lived in the mountains of Northwestern Greece for a year. Regional Greek food is amazingly rich and never reaches the restaurant kitchens and tables.
I’m glad you enjoyed some of the foods of my mother’s homeland; realize that you are eating responses to modern influences …
I enjoy your post –