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Some of the most exciting food I’ve had in Miami of late was at the recently opened Coya, 999 Brickell Avenue (T.305-415-9990). And then there were all of the beautiful people, many Latins and Euros, who are members of the Coya Club in London and Dubai. We went as part of “friends and family”, a soft opening to fine tune the service and operation and we loved it.

The restaurant’s entrance, through a spacious bar with floor to ceiling bottles of libations, backlit for dramatic effect, belies what’s behind the doors – a members only club, the restaurant and ceviche bar. The décor of the restaurant reminded me of Spanish colonial interiors in Peru with its wrought iron, velveteen-like burnt yellow upholstered chairs, hammered silver panels on the walls, wooden tables and works of art. And speaking of art, the restaurant’s concept is to have a Coya Collective to showcase artistic talent from around South America and beyond. Its walls will serve as a creative space “to promote the art, music and vibrancy of Latin American culture”.

Coya is about Peruvian cuisine and the influences that has shaped it as it has evolved, including other cultures from Latin America, Asia and Europe. But first, the novel beverages. Coya is understandably proud of its Pisco Bar with 20 varieties made in house, infused with fruits, spices and herbs like blackcurrant, ahi panda chili and cinnamon orange. They’re served in a “botija” jar, a welcome traditional detail.

The menu is all about small plates made for sharing which are highly colorful and creatively presented,  like abstract works of art. Dishes are made at the ceviche bar, on the Japanese robata charcoal grill or in a Josper oven that both bakes and broils over very high heat . Traditional Peruvian dishes such as ceviches, tiraditos and anticuchos (small skewers fired on a charcoal grill) have a flavorful twist or combination of ingredients that separates them from others found at the growing number of Peruvian restaurants around town.  Take for example the Calabacines y hongos ceviche. Thin slices of zucchini frame  zucchini slivers, garnished with shitake mushrooms and mint, looking almost like a pastry tart. Then there was the Atun Chifa, yellowfin tuna with a homage to China, made with soy, sesame seeds and leche de tigre, said to be an aphrodisiac.

Love Peruvian “choclos” (corn)? Then do not miss the Ensalada de Maiz. A colorful mélange of Josper corn, canchas (crispy corn), sweet onion and chilis lend both a crunch and soft texture to a perfectly piquant salad. And then there are the mushroom anticuchos, a standout. Forest mushrooms with a thin coating of aji rocoto pepper are charred on the robata grill and sprinkled with parsley then served on a bamboo skewer. They’re chewy and rich and had me wanting more.

It was tough, but we skipped the fritos (fried fish), cazuelas (casseroles) including one of Peruvian dried potatoes, wild mushrooms and black truffles, and went straight for the Langostino Tigre al Josper – a huge Ecuadorean prawn with chili salsa , another standout, and the Josper strip loin with chimichurri and tamarind salsa.

We didn’t think it could get much better until the dessert came. OMG.  Sundae de maiz was sweet corn ice cream, pineapple foam and chunks, lime sauce, caramel corn and cashews. Both sweet and savory, smooth and crunchy, it was  a winning combination.

Prices range from the low teens to under $45 with most larger dishes hovering in the low $30’s. Desserts are $11. There’s also a three course daily lunch special at $29.

Coya’s members only club is an intimate restaurant and bar with a DJ and projected events and entertainment nightly. Members also have access to the namesake club in London and Dubai. Membership is by invitation only and is $2000 a year.

Coya promises to be one of the hot new restaurants Miami 2015.

Photography by William Oberheiser