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A salad “sandwich” with the “bread” being oh-so-thin sweet potato poached in carrot juice, filled with a nest of baby greens, red grapes, Maytag blue cheese and slivered tomato, all topped in a light, champagne poppy seed vinaigrette. Cauliflower “steak” with sweet potato fettuccine, yellow bell pepper and chimichurri.  Or, for meat lovers, short rib braised in red wine with crunchy polenta and confit baby carrots.

You probably got the picture now. Highly creative and brilliant way with vegetables. These are some of the dishes by Chef Venoy Rogers III on the  Essensia Miami Spice menu at The Palms Hotel & Spa, 3025 Collins Avenue (T.305-908-5458). Chef Rogers just came to Miami by way of San Diego, where he was steeped in California cuisine and the ways of a local, organic and seasonal approach. And now he has combined that with what he calls “American fusion” cuisine inspired by Miami’s “melting pot.”

Though recently arrived, he has already created new partnerships with Florida farms to enhance the menu with more locally sourced ingredients. Together with Miami based Rock Garden Farm, he has built a new program for Essensia’s on-site Chef’s Garden with herbs and fresh produce. He’s also working with J&C Tropicals to grow mangoes and other fruits, and with Florida Fresh herbs to designate spaces in their organic greenhouses exclusively for Essensia and The Palms Hotel.

But let’s go back to the exciting menu. We tasted the three or four selections from each of three courses on the Spice Menu and liked every one. Entrees were particular standouts. Besides the cauliflower and short rib there was saffron poached black grouper, a tastier, fattier version of the grouper found on most menus. It was garnished with Spanish chorizo studded faro, seared brussel leaves and squid ink aioli. We also tried the citrus brined chicken, which had been marinated in key lime, orange and honey overnight, served with warm pee wee potato and arugula salad. The marinade sounds like a winner for cooking chicken at home.

Dessert offerings included a chocolate “bar,” a rich, dark pudding-like confection with raspberry glaze and toffee popcorn, and passion fruit cheesecake. All the dishes were perfectly cooked and seasoned just right – enough to be exciting, but with a deft hand so right “on point.”

I’m happy to say that the Spice deal extended to the Oyster Bay wines – Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Pinot Noir, which were very good and $12 a glass or $44 a bottle. There are also cocktail specials also inspired by the property’s emphasis on wellness and nature for $10, like a Pink Pisco — pisco, hibiscus, lime, cane syrup, egg whites and watermelon. Delicious. The Miami Spice three course lunch menu has some very tasty sounding choices as well, such as smoked salmon with fava bean puree and summer herb salad; Baja fish taco with local white fish, chipotle crème, cabbage slaw, cilantro and Mexican corn, and a chocolate crepe for dessert

.The Miami Spice dinner menu is $39; lunch is $23. Spice menus change monthly. The promotion runs through September. You can choose indoor or outdoor dining on the terrace overlooking lush tropical gardens,  home to a variety of palms, swaying bamboo trees, exotic orchids and herbs, birds of paradise, and two mascot parrots, Sunshine & Chance.

Chef Rogers is not only talented, but is warm and hospitable, with an engaging smile. You can’t help but wish him all the success in the world in Miami.

Food photography by William Oberheiser

Food garden photo courtesy of masalaeatsmiami.com