Restaurant with an Edge
After having a scrumptious mariachi burger, some very tasty small bites, and house made potato chips at happy hour at Edge restaurant in the Four Seasons Miami at 1435 Brickell Avenue (T.305358-3535), I vowed to be back to try the dinner menu (see my earlier review of the happy hour). I made it, and glad I did. But there was a problem. Ms. Picky (“moi”), liked everything except two items on the menu (octopus and oysters both of which I don’t eat) and choosing was very tough. The restaurant bills itself as a steakhouse, so we tried a Boston cut strip steak, char broiled at 1800 degrees and treated to “cutting edge rub” ($22). I loved the fact that small size cuts are offered, as too often you’re forced to order a steak of 12 ounces or more. The steak had just the right beefy flavor, was tender, and perfectly cooked. I chose to accompany it with the traditional béarnaise sauce, one of six choices including malbec jus, peppercorn and tamarind BBQ.
There’s also a solid seafood selection including grilled local fish served in a choice of 5 or 7 ounces ($23 to $33); a seafood selection for two with oysters, jumbo shrimp, stone crab claws and lobster cocktail (perfect for a light meal, priced at $45), and an intriguing sampler of tartares. The tartares were my pick, including beef tartare, corvina (baby cucumber, green apple, celery leaf ,yellow pepper sauce); ahi tuna with watermelon and shallots; and octopus with baby artichokes and tomato salsa (I had a double portion of the tuna rather than the octopus). It was exceptional in its varied taste sensations. In fact, in itself worth a return visit, well priced at $19, and also ideal for a light meal with a glass of wine and salad.
A selection of soup and salads make for another good choice for an appetizer. We chose the watercress and fried dates, a symphony of tastes, combined with counterpoints of speck and goat cheese. Side dishes also showed the creativity of talented chef Aaron Brooks, offerings including quinoa and fire roasted corn salad, sautéed watercress with chorizo and almonds, and the piece de resistance, chorizo and cheddar croquetas, small bites of melting heaven, paired with Romesco sauce.
For dessert, I recommend the Chocolate – warm blackout brownie, pretzel nougat and vanilla ice cream or the Passion – raspberry sorbet, crisp meringue, and passion fruit gelee. There’s also an excellent selection of Vermont cheeses and dessert wines.
Ask for Pedro as your waiter. He’s a real pro and an absolute delight.
Edge calls itself a “different cut of steakhouse” with its steak lite concept of smaller cuts and lighter culinary style.I applaud their approach, and just wish others would get on their bandwagon.
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