Karen’s note, March 22, 2017: L’Epicerie has new French owners and no longer makes their baguettes fresh on site (and no boules). They import them frozen from France and then bake them. We tried one which was good though not the same as before. The new owner’s plans include selling a wide variety of gourmet food products from France and already has some on display.
French Morning, the national online publication for the French speaking community in the US, readers named L’Epicerie’s baguette the best in Miami for 2016. In this town with a scarcity of artisanal baguettes, this merited a special trip to check it out. It also turned out that the bakery and French restaurant had all manner of tempting baked goods, from an oh so thin apple tart from Megeve and chocolate cake in the style of legendary baker Pierre Herme, to feuillete, a cross between a croissant and brioche.
But let’s return to the main event, the baguette. The key to a successful one said Arthur Arnaize, who trained in Alsace with a Michelin star chef, is the fermentation process of the yeast, endless kneading, and a top oven that bakes the top and bottom simultaneously. The oven he has is serious, $50K worth of oven. Probably, though, the biggest reason for his success is his passion, and the time he dedicates to making every loaf.
And very good it is – super crusty, chewy, and tasty, not like so many of the insipid varieties, especially ones that are frozen and reheated. On Saturday in season he sells as many as 100 a day for $3.80 each.
But I have to tell you – his round boule made of dark rye is just as good in my book. It brings crusty to a new level which contrasts with the soft, chewy inside. Can’t wait to try it with some French butter.
I don’t know about you, but I can’t eat an entire loaf at a sitting, even with help. So what to do? Arthur suggests wrapping the baguette in a linen cloth called a torchon (he sells them), and they last two days. Or, they can be frozen in a zip lock bag and when you want to eat one, put it frozen in a preheated oven at 350 F and bake for a few minutes until defrosted.
Another crowd pleaser and I can see why is their thin apple tart (like a tarte tatin but thinner). Want something different for breakfast? Try the feuilletee which comes in sweet and savory versions (bacon and cheese). There are also croissants (mais oui) and other desserts that vary, from a Pavlova and Paris Brest to Baba au Rhum.
L”Epicerie, 195 N.W. 36th street (T.786-483-8270), serves breakfast, lunch and dinner until 7 pm. They serve a number of French classics like quiche and tartines along with cheese and charcuterie plates and salads . They also have their own free parking.
